Greece may want for gold right now, but Elie Saab’s collection of gilded lace gowns with intricately woven motifs harked back to a time when Byzantine princesses had all the sparkle their hearts desired.
The Lebanese designer’s autumn/winter couture collection of evening gowns – and a few jumpsuits – bore all of the translucence and intricate embroidery for which he has become known.
But this time, the opulent dresses which have become a firm favorite on the red carpet were all about the gold, in a throwback to Saab’s early work in the 1990s – before Halle Berry won an Oscar wearing one of his dresses in 2002 and he hit the big time.
Saab said his original gowns were “reinterpreted to evoke the glistening, golden palaces of Byzantium.”
In another nod to the ’90s, models with golden laurels woven into their hair walked the catwalk to the throbbing strains of Nirvana which had the front row glitterati bopping their heads and singing along to Kurt Cobain’s lyrics.
Painstakingly embroidered vines and foliage covered a variety of dresses in lace, silk tulle and chiffon, several of which had flowing floor-length capes.
Mink fur crept in on cropped sleeves, collars and purses. Aside from the ubiquitous gold, earthy green, burgundy and black also made their way into the collection.
A nostalgic Saab closed off the show with a wedding gown described as “the very soul” of the house.
The gold, sleeveless gown with a voluminous skirt, long train and lace embroidered veil was a reminder of the gold Saab dress worn by wife Claudine at his own wedding, 25 years ago this month.
Commenting on the show, Elle USA said Elie Saab’s collection was reminiscent of childhood princess fairy tales and royal weddings. Elle France said the collection was “straight out of a fairy tale.”
Tastemakers like fashion blogger Une Libanaise aParis (A Lebanese in Paris) noted the breathtaking shoe designs. Saudi blogger Al-Anoud Badr, known as Lady Fozzaza, wrote that the collection was “stunning.”
Style Arabia’s editorial on the show was titled “Intricate details."
