Art Deco jewels showcased for the first time in the Middle East

Published April 5th, 2010 - 01:11 GMT

Christie’s Dubai will for the first time present a wide range of period jewels from the Art Deco period (1920 to 1935) in the upcoming April auction, alongside pieces by nine contemporary jewellery designers and a range of exquisite diamonds and coloured gemstones. The watch section will include 43 rare and highly collectable watches including an exceptional diamond-set Patek Philippe wristwatch.

“It is with great pleasure that we introduce to our Dubai jewellery sales and the Middle Eastern market period jewellery for the first time. We will showcase unique pieces from the Art Deco period, an era of jewellery design that is highly sought after and collected throughout the world, alongside a strong section of talented Middle Eastern and international contemporary jewellery designers. This juxtaposition of two periods in jewellery design will illustrate the sheer diversity and momentum behind the jewellery craft in the last 100 years, allowing collectors insight into the designs and techniques used during the 20th century. We are delighted to be offering such a fresh perspective this season,” said David Warren, International Director of Christie’s Jewellery department and Head of the Middle Eastern Jewellery department. 

Period pieces: Art Deco

The 1920s and 1930s jewellery designs cast off the delicate lace-like settings and classic femininity of the Belle Epoque era (1895-1915). The new style was dynamical strong, clean cut and overtly angular, complementing the highly fitted business-like haute couture of the early 20th century.

Art Deco highlights in the Dubai sale include a bracelet and a clip brooch by Cartier, circa 1925 of which the bracelet is designed as a series of pierced Moorish motifs of geometrical design to form a choker (estimate: $30,000-40,000 / AED110,000-150,000). A charming emerald and diamond vase of flower clip-brooch, by Cartier, circa 1935 (estimate: $10,000-15,000 / AED37,000-55,000) and a selection of stylish bracelets, including a rare scroll design ruby and diamond bracelet estimated at $50,000-70,000 /AED190,000-250,000 as well as a diamond rivière, composed of forty-seven brilliant-cut diamonds, circa 1920 (estimate: $60,000-80,000 / AED220,000-290,000) are included in the sale.

Signed pieces

Innovative designs from the 1960s and 70s, include several items from the Italian master craftsman  Buccellati, featuring two rare gem-set rings delicately engraved with pierced mounts, one set with a marquise-cut yellow diamond of approximately 6.00 carats (estimate: $30,000-50,000 / AED110,000-180,000); the other, set with a cushion-shaped sapphire of approximately 18.00 carats (estimate: $18,000-25,000 / AED66,000-91,0000).  A natural pearl and yellow gold necklace, circa 1970, by Van Cleef & Arpels is an iconic example of the striking 1970s style (estimate: $15,000-25,000 / AED55,000-91,000).

Diamonds are forever

The strong diamond section is carried by an important 17.71 carat cut-cornered rectangular D colour, VVS2 clarity, diamond ring, signed by J. Roca (estimate: $1,000,000-1,500,000 / AED3,700,000-5,550,000) and another rectangular-cut, natural Fancy Intense Yellow colour, VVS1 clarity, diamond ring weighing 26.61 carats (estimate: $450,000-500,000 / AED1,700,000-1,800,000). Furthermore a square-shaped natural Fancy light Yellow diamond of 34.03 carats (estimate: $300,000-500,000 / AED1,100,000-1,800,000),  a heart-shaped diamond necklace composed of fifty-six graduated diamonds weighing a total of 60.79 carats ( estimate: $200,000-300,000 / AED730,000-1,100,000), and a rare 5.30 carat marquise-shaped diamond, D colour, Internally Flawless clarity (estimate: $250,000-350,000 / AED910,000-1,300,000) are just few examples from this important section of the sale.

Watches

In the past sales seasons the watch section of the sale has achieved a staggering sell-through-rate average of 95%. This strong performance has increased consignments from private collectors each season and established Dubai as a key sales location for watches in the world. Most of the 43 watches on offer on 28 April are from private hands and include collectable watches, made by Patek Philippe, Constantin Vacheron and Audemars Piguet; as well those from a small private collection, of which the second half will be sold by Christie’s in Hong Kong in May. Individual estimates range from $2,000 to $150,000. The top estimate is carried by a Patek Philippe, ref. 5971P (estimate: $150,000-230,000 / AED550,000-840,000). This timepiece combines the intricacies of mechanical composition with the stunning luxury of diamonds and platinum. It also features the most quintessential of complications – the perpetual calendar, chronograph and moon phase with day and night indication. To date this is only the second reference 5971P to be offered at auction; the first one was sold at Christie’s Hong Kong in 2008.

Established in 1845, Glashütte is renowned for its functionality and its design, based on its strict attention to detail in both movement and dials. Christie’s offers a platinum and diamond-set automatic flying tourbillon wristwatch, limited edition, number 25/25 for $50,000-70,000 / AED190,000-250,000.

Breguet, one of the most historic watch brands in the world is known by many as the watchmaker to Kings. It was Breguet who first invented and patented the tourbillion in 1801, as a way of ensuring that the movement rate of pocket watches would not be affected by gravity. The watch on offer is a platinum and pink gold manually-wound tourbillon wristwatch, made circa 1995 (estimate: $30,000-40,0000 / AED110,000-150,000).


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